Reticulating metal involves slowly heating and cooling sterling silver sheet repeatedly until the fine silver rises to the surface. Then you can create ripples and ridges on the surface of the silver using a torch. The metal is draws itself into ridges and valleys, creating a unique texture.
Many alloys can be made to reticulate, but a formulation of 80% silver and 20% copper yields particularly dramatic results. Because copper plays an important role in reticulation, higher copper content generally enhances results. 
Reticulated Silver Choker with Blue Topaz
The squares for this choker were first made by reticulating sterling silver. The artist then had the squares cast—so she could offer a less expensive necklace—then accented with Swiss Blue topaz gemstones. 
Reticulated Silver Pendant
With 18K gold borders and Sugilite gemstone
Please note that this is a very simplified explanation of a very complex process, and you should thoroughly educate yourself or take a class to learn the nuances of this method of jewelry making. There are many factors that will affect the appearance of your finished piece.
The Reticulation Process
Reticulation is a two-step process. During the first operation, a surface layer must be created that has a higher melting point than the original alloy below that layer. The most common method for doing this is by deliberately oxidizing and then pickling of the work piece. This will deplete the surface of base metals and enrich it with either fine silver in the case of 80/20 silver, or gold with karat gold alloys.
The actual reticulation occurs in the second process, during which the work piece is heated with a torch to a temperature above the flow point of the interior but below the melting point of the surface layer. The surface remains solid, but the interior expands when it changes from solid to liquid, and the reticulated texture is created in the surface layer.
When the heat source is removed, the interior solidifies, resulting in a reticulated sheet that can then be cut, bent, twisted, or generally do with as you wish.
If you use a torch for the primary treatment, you may need to repeat the process several times to generate a deep enough fine silver layer to reticulate. If the layer is too thin, the reticulation process won't work. When reticulated, a thin surface layer of fine silver will give a tighter texture, and a thicker layer results in a coarser texture.
If you'd like to try this fascinating jewelry technique, but don't want all the preliminary steps, you can now order sterling silver or karat gold sheet that has already been oxidized and pickled—known as air annealed sheet—ready for you to reticulate. Karat golds are treated to generate a fine pattern only, but with 80/20 sheet you can produce both fine and coarse patterns.
You should only reticulate as much metal as you need, since much better control can be achieved on a smaller work piece. The reticulation process must be done with a torch, and yet again there are variables that will affect your reticulation texture.
A larger torch and tip will generate a coarser texture than a smaller torch and tip. Most 80/20 silver reticulation can be done with a small torch/tip combination, but the karat golds respond better to a larger torch because they need more heat to reticulate.
Move your torch over the sheet surface to pre-heat until reticulation is close. Then concentrate the flame in a smaller area to begin the process. When reticulation occurs, keep the torch moving along the work piece. If the heat remains in one place too long, you'll burn through the surface layer.
If that happens, don't panic. You can always cut the shape you require around the defect. You can create pretty much any pattern you like by keeping the torch moving. Like any other technique, a certain amount of trial and error and practice is involved.
For years Hoover & Strong has been selling our popular 80/20 reticulating silver cold rolled sheet to those of who enjoy using this process, but you had to do all the work of pre-treating and reticulating. Hoover & Strong now offers 80/20 silver in two new forms: air annealed and pickled ready for reticulation, and already reticulated. They also offer various karat gold alloys.
All you have to do is cut and shape—and make some awesome jewelry!
12.13.2007
Reticulated Metal Jewelry
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